Wild, Wild, West Coast
Escaping Queenstown and heading up to the West coast for the scenic Transalpine train was a complete bloody logistical nightmare. Whilst this country is all scenic spectre (which makes it so special), easy accessibility sans car is not their forte!
Managed to negotiate a juggle of trips with west coast stops along the way, over the course of two and a bit days, to reach Greymouth and the train terminal by Friday.
Part 1 was a small group tour to Franz Joseph. A 12 hour on the road epic that would’ve done Jack Kerouac proud. Itinerary was jam-packed – a wild and winding journey up the west coast taking in sights such as Wanaka, the Tolkien esque Haast pass (wizard you shall not etc…) Fantail falls, Ship Creek, Bruce Bay, and Lake Mattheson before culminating in Franz Joseph, and if we were very lucky and the clouds cleared…maybe a Fox glacier finale. Tbc….
‘Small group tour’ a fair reflection, since it turned out to be just 2 of us! Marina from the central region of France and Colin, our hugely dull but nice enough, tour guide.
Everything underwhelmed Colin. Proof that perhaps a life of driving past these natural wonders on a daily basis eventually becomes the norm, but alas, a bit of spark might’ve been nice to keep the tour alive. God bless Marina – she was a joy and digging deep in her aquired english arsenal to ask interesting questions and accompany the drive with the oohs and ahhhs the journey deserved. He, however, was very much a Colin by name and nature (Colin Goodwin and maybe the Caterpillar, being the only two exceptions I’ve ever met to challenge the dry and boring Colin rule) soz to other Colins out there, please disprove my stats, but we are we we are right now.

First stop was much recommended Wanaka for a potter in the shops and cafes and, of course, a pilgrimage to the famous Wanaka tree. Colin told us an interesting tale (I know!) that popularity mounted after a photo was included on a Chinese tourism website proclaiming the places in the world people must visit – wanaka bizarrely in at number one. In dutiful fashion, thousands of Chinese tourists apparently flock to see the tree every year, and today was no exception. We had arrived at stupid o’clock, so beat the crowds and were treated to a crunchy carpeted avenue of autumn leaves leading to the spot.

Really is a sight to behold, sat languishing out on the lake… lonely but lofty. Such a treat to be here in the autumn, my favourite of all the seasons (white woman’s instagram etc) but asides from Japan and maybe the Californian and Canadian coast I’m yet to see somewhere who can do autumnal-awesome quite the same.

Highlights of the long drive included an array of waterfall pit stops, gaining in grandeur – Fantail falls, Thunder creek and culminating in the aptly named and natured Roaring Bill falls. Traversed the tidal path to get there, trundling across the rock and rubble like something from prehistoric times. You can’t capture the sheer size and scale of the basin without seeing with your own eyes, but it was massive. And thanks to shoulder season, empty, so just the two of us rattling around (Colin waited in the car…obvs!)

Not so highlights included approximately 850 dead possums on the road. Talk about a million ways to die in the west!!! Roadkill is _everywhere_ which considering how many people actually live here, I reckon most must have a possum to person kill rate to rival John Wick.


We swung into the aply named Hunter’s Lodge in Haas for our lunch stop, and both went for their famous venison burger. Deer farms are a big deal on this coast, and the decor a not so subtle suggestion that they do it well. Also, accompanied by possibly the best chips i think I’ve ever had…and unfortunately, more of Colin’s chat! (those chips though…..)

Notable stops post lunch included Ship Creek, for a tropical rainforest hike and the hunt for blue mushrooms! A bizarre New Zealand native flourescent fungus that crop up unexpectedly throughout the undergrowth. The landscape has changed almost constantly despite being on the same coast the whole way, so a real insight into the diverse types of terrain Nz has to offer.

Here is also where I provided a tasty treat for sand flies who chomped my cankles a charm, despite the “homemade insect repellent” a naturalist friend of Colin’s had made and he encouraged we douse ourselves with before leaving the van. Wandered the walkways and wondered what on earth we’d smothered on our extremities and tried to ignore it until sanitiser was in sight back at the carpark!!

This stop was also where we were lucky enough to spot Hector dolphins in the wild. Famed as a rare find, to see almost 15 in a proud pod, popping above and below the surface of the shore was pretty magical and even think I saw Colin crack a smirk (though post lunch, could’ve been indigestion…)

The final stretch was onward and upwards to Franz Joseph and a final stop at Lake Mattheson for a walk to the mirror lake lookout. Around a 30-minute atmospheric amble through thick rainforest cover, the rain trickling through the treetops, made for a lovely little yomp and the majestic lake at the end made it worthwhile and then some.

Albeit long and accompanied by Colin, Marina and I had an incredible day’s drive stuffed full of wild west coast best bits ‘ snow capped mountains, rainforests, waterfalls, lakes and a veritable schmorgesboard of supplementary scenery across the 350km to Franz.
Piece de resistence was a final and very fortunate glimpse at Fox glacier and Mount cook through the clouds. The low hanging fog en route had threatened this option heavily, and to be fair to Colin, he managed our expectations well. So we were both delighted to turn the corner into the lookout spot to see the luminous blue of the ice slick, sliding down the mountain like something out of a James Bond opening scene.

My only plan for my 1 day here in Franz Joseph was a helicopter flight and stop on the glacier. However, due to the howling weather, it was unfortunately cancelled. A real shame, but the luck and luxury was going to catch up with me at some point, so never mind, eh! What made it slightly trickier was that there isn’t a tonne to do in a tiny town, who’s entire tourism offering relies on outdoor activities and nice weather.
I went in search of alternatives and met a woman in the local information centre who was really helpful. Once I’d regathered my pelvic floor after the suggestion, I should go kayaking (!!! I mean, truly….can you imagine!) I decided on the West Coast Wildlife Centre and a massage!

The wildlife centre dined out largely on its Kiwi sanctury status and was also playing the Millennium album by Backstreet Boys on a continuous loop; so I think we can all agree, a strong start there. Guided tour a bit pointless as mainly focused on Tuatara, a reptile thing a bit like a mini iguana. They neglected to mention in the advertising they haven’t actually had kiwi eggs at their hatchery for 3 seasons….so a bit of a swizz. Katie, who ran the tour, also unhinged reptile obsessive who didn’t want anyone to touch anything (including the chairs we were sitting on?!) so I tried to make minimal sudden movements and not directly question the kiwi thing… but it was basically £35 to look at a bunch of empty cabinets. Couldn’t help but feel you too can create the same day trip by getting a local oddball to show you round an abandoned GCSE science lab…

There was a final walk through with 2 (yep 2….!) Kiwis to see in full darkness, and no photography allowed, so you’ll just have to take my word for it. They are absolutely hilarious birds look like they’re about to topple over the entire time.
They also lay massive eggs- poor loves! Then exhausted, leave the father to do everything after that, which if you’ve just given birth to the equivalent of a 35lb baby….I’d be kicking back too!!

Went for a massage at the luxury hotel spa (I was not staying at, boo!), and all was well again! I want to feel like I’ve got 10 rounds with Tyson at a massage, so I’ve learnt never to underestimate a tiny masseuse. Cue Noora who pummelled me to a pulp. Marvellous.
Had dinner at a lovely little historic establishment called Alice May. Our eponymous restauranteur a scorned woman who shot her abusive lover when he jilted her following the still born birth of their baby. The restaurant is run by Alice’s grandaughter and is stuffed full of great propaganda about her case. Sounded like she was mistreated terribly, and Bill West, her partner, was a total prick… Hell hath no fury like a woman scorned and all that.
She shot him in the head point blank and turned gun in herself, but miraculously survived (with a bullet lodged in her brain) and was sentenced (by a jury of 12 men and no women) to life imprisonment and hard labour in 1915, despite the violence she suffered.
The injustice of the harsh sentence, not matched my any other man serving for the same crime (shocker!) led to huge campaigns for her release across Nz at the time. In 1921, after 6 years of labour, she was released on strict probation. She happily went on to live a better life, found love with a carpenter 2 years later, and had 6 children – her granddaughter now owns the restaurant and keeps her story alive.
Inspiring stuff…especially if an actual murderer can find a new boyfriend within two years of release, surely there is hope for muggins.

Glad of only 1 night here in Franz Joseph on account of it being utterly mental quite frankly. The whole population of the town is 90! Which is about ⅙ of the people who live on my road! So I think says all we need to know….
Heading for Christchurch tomorrow via the scenic Trans Apline train through the southern alps. Tipped as one of the World’s Greatest Train Journeys, so i’m excited to see what it has in store.

Here’s to a decent night’s sleep and getting the hell outta dodge in the morning! x
















































































