Arrived in Busan after getting rejected from a bus for having suitcase and being a solo female…again! Uber to the rescue at 10x the cost and finally on my way to Haeundae for some very much needed r&r.

Checked in to a room with the biggest bed I’ve ever seen, and I mean could comfortably sleep 5 (if that’s your vibe) for lil ol’ me however, a diagonal dream!!! Couldn’t even reach my phone on charge! Delightful.

Maccy ds from next door #cultural and bed. So glad to be coastal chilling for a week!

Like the sickly Victorian child (make up free me is often mistaken for), I’ve always had an infinity with the sea. I try to make sure I see the sea every birthday and always seem dragged back there when at low ebbs in life. There’s something so restorative in sea air – soaking up the sounds, toes sinking into the sand, standing at the edge of the world.

Today was a forced day of rest but I couldn’t wait to wander to the shore. Adventures, fortunately, concided with the 20th annual Haeundae sand festival, and the beach was strewn with sandcastles on a supersized scale! Intricately carved and crafted by expert artists depicting scenes from Squid games and sea scapes to Big Ben and Buddha!

Originally a small event that started in 2005 to commemorate the APEC economic leaders meeting, where 21 leaders from Asian Pacific countries gathered to discuss world ecominics, policies and unified collaboration, it’s grown into an annual masterclass of sandy proportions.

Marvelled at the creativity before heading to Haeundae street market, a stones throw from the hotel.

Saw an iconic girl en route wearing a t-shirt that said “Sometimes it ok to be a hot mess” and made a mental note to keep that as a life motto for home!

It’s a super teaditional market specialising in seafood, so I wandered the lanes and watched a man skinning live eels for a while. Pretty grim. Thought back to my grandad keeping eels in the bath and wondered if that would come across through Google translate or not. The rows were stuffed with huge tanks of crustaceans swimming below menus they were unwittingly the star of!

Got given a tiny whole deep fried baby crab to try…people eat them like crisps and despite being delicious couldn’t get down with scoffing the entire shell. I’ll stick to pringles thanks babe.

Here is where I also finally tried hotteok- a super popular Korean street food snack which is a bit like a cross between a doughnut and a pancake. They have different fillings with honey or honey and cheese (?) being the traditional favourite. Great to watch the women making and frying them in hot oil on a flat griddle from scratch at the stall and for £1.20 you get a golden envelope of absolute deliciousness! And as a great bonus, they also throw in 3rd degree burns to your entire mouth for free…so that was good.

“Wait for it to cool down” clearly lost in translation! Eeeshk! Downed my water and wondered if you can regrow taste buds? Or if the rest of my life will just be  bland from now on….

Picked up some takeaway sushi from the fish market…don’t come fresher than being able to see the sea from the stall!

Headed back for rooftop pool for a bougie chill and a glass of wine and telly. Wind down is the priority (must remember)!! Another 12hrs of diagonally sleep! Joy.

Today was 95% chance of rain which at the seaside isn’t a vibe, so I headed to the Guinness world record certified biggest department store in the world! Shingsae Centrum City, and it is a behemoth!!! Stuffed full of shops, restaurants, a 4 story spa, there’s even an all year round ice rink! Ubered with the loveliest driver ever who had a 5 star rating, and whose playlist consisted solely of Megadeath, Pantera, Rage against the machine, and Sabbath. Incredible given i’d estimate his age to be about 75. Once a metal head, always a metal head clearly. He attempted to speak to me in English, wished me a great day, and hoped he’d “have the happy of driving me again soon.” I loved him. 5 stars!

Came for tempura fest at the massive food hall here before tackling the shops. Eyes on some more gentle monster sunnies maybe, see how I feel before I leave Seoul.

Bought a cap, because feels like a beach necessity and not sure if I just look like a 50+ Floridian…but given it says New Balance, not make America great again…think i’ll get away with it. It’s funny how you never consider how insanely deformed your head is until you go cap shopping…I swear this is the 50th one I’ve tried. I refused to succumb to Sergio Tachini, which was the only other contender…so moonlighting as a mid western golf dad, it is!

Trying out my new Korean beauty today and in love with this cushion foundation so will be sure to stock up before I get home so I can bring south Korean glow to the streets of south London…or try. There’s something in the makeup here that makes you look 5 years younger, I swear. So that will prove helpful when home, given that I am upsettling entering old bird territory and am now in a whole new tick box category in forms! Sob!!

Made the most of a rainy day and headed to the (one of 2) cinemas (in the same department store!) to watch the live action Lilo and Stitch as few films in English and I forgot my glasses for subtitles. Bloody loved it. Balled my eyes out at the original on a plane, like full-blown ugly cry!!! and inexplicably thought I’d manage this time. But no, the emotions are wrecked this week after all the tiredness so sobbing away into my popcorn it was!! That tiny little alien dog just gets me, man. Gorgeous.

Decided to brave some Nightlife in Busan as spied quite a few fellow travellers here but in reality bars are just watered down drinks and all a bit style over substance. One speakeasy looked cool but vetoed on account of cigar smoking inside and i’d just washed my hair babe, so it’s a no from me. Resorted to drinking straight whiskey to ensure a decent drink and gave up after an hour of sitting in my larry next to some obnoxious americans…chicken nuggets and Hacks on Amazon Prime to the rescue.

A truly beautiful sunny Sunday in Haeundae today, so I took the sea train from Mipo to Songjeong beach. Gorgeous little bright red ride along the coast with plenty of interesting stops along the way.

The journey is famed for the insta worthy capsule railway that runs above the train on a monorail rail style sky track. Advanced booking is advised, and as a solo, “weirdo” didn’t even attempt the conversation for a ticket, but cute to watch the colourful carriages all the same.

Gave up my seat in the beach train for two tiny toddler twins and one of whom then tapped me to give me a sweetie and bowed to say thank you and my heart nearly exploded. Adoreable.

Got off at the terminus and watched the surfers at the beach for a while before attempting to reboard….

…once again, as is customary in Korea, a total distrust of single person palava. Maaaan, I feel so single here. Watched the previous train sit in the platform, couples boarding (?) and then leave half empty whilst I inexplicably was told to sit and wait half an hour, on a bench, for the next one. They bloody love their bizarre rules! Very annoying!!

Loads of excellent lost in translation voiceovers on the train reminding you to “make excellent life memory” at most stops. “And embrace romantic love cafe” at one….

Got off part way and wandered the rest of the 5km along the sea promenade. Gorgeous. Notable stops along the way, including the Sky walk, with a glass shelf stretching out to sea. And opportunity to test reinforced glass over the waves and get that funny life affirming feeling that tells you to jump in, at the edge…

Then onto the Cheongsapo lighthouses, a pair of beach side beacons which make notable appearances in plenty of K dramas im told and bookend the rocky harbour with pops of colour against the ocean blue.

Tuesday was a day trip across to Gamcheon Culture village. Know as the lego village of South Korea, it’s an adoreable artsy display of hillside houses, in every colour of the rainbow.

Reminiscent of Morocco or Santorini, the homes stretch high along the horizon, with a maze of hidden alleyways and a myriad of colour within the village itself.

The Boy and the Fox is a famous statue that sits at the top of the hill, surveying the scenery and visitors flock for miles to see it. A cutesy, artificial setup, but sweet all the same. I sat, and people watched those who precariously took up a spot next to the shiny plastic figures and marvelled at the contortionist angles Boyfriends of Instagram were forced to make for the “perfect” shot….

Had a frozen s’more, marshmallow ice cream on a stick, which the guy of course toasted with a blowtorch shaped like a trex. …and watched the hanbok huns clip clop across the cobbles.

Final day here was another long day trip adventure to Gyeongju, a beautiful UNESCO world heritage temple town, strewn with history and shrouded in South Korean traditions. 

Roll up to a coach full of Americans and me (these things are sent to try us) but actually got sat next to Bryan, a dreamboat chap from Texas, who was part of a Korean language school tour, learning the lingo and absorbing all the country had to offer. He’d visited Korea three times before and offered some insightful gems on must sees, dos, and best ways to navigate rainy days in Seoul (should they return when im back there in a week). Slowly but surely, the odd patriot is eroding my bias, and it’s welcome. Then a guy in the back shouted YEE’HAW in response to a fact about the war, and order was restored…

Plenty of picturesque stops along the way. This temple was littered with lanterns, which symbolise good luck, good fortune, wealth, and peace for both family, self, and those who’ve passed to the next life. Scenic ceilinged walkways smothered in sun-kissed rainbow shadows, accompanying some really amazing architecture. Alongside swathes of stone towers, made of odd numbered rocks to bring in some Buddha endorsed serenity and luck. 

We had a pit stop at the central village for a spot of Veggie Bibimpmap and a smorgasbord selection of salty, savoury, and spicy snacks. Delish!

Saw the Bulguksa Temple, Daereunwon Tombs, and the awe-inspiring Woljeonggyo bridge, but our guide wasn’t fully invested by this point, so it was pretty hard to remain engaged. Plus, the early start and sweltering weather were catching up with all of us. At the risk of sounding like a totally spoilt, philistine, the massive sprawling complex started to feel a bit seen one Gyeongju temple, felt like seen them all.

The trip was topped off by a lovely “circle back” (vom!) to the bridge for nighttime snaps with it all lit up and lovely. So alls well that ends well for sure.

A long day meant I swerved drinks this eve and packed up ready to island hop in the morning.

Arrived too early at what’s gotta be a serious contender for the world’s worst airport, Busan domestic terminal. Got a mystery sarnie, that turned out to be like a massive fig roll… but in sandwich form. Of course it was?! Whyyyyyy! and stared into the abyss until they announced boarding.

En route to Jeju for some island life, so cheers to chilling and tangerine juice drinking! Mahalo!