Unsurprisingly, my digestive system continues to hate insanely delicious Korean food so after waking up at 3.45am thinking I was going to vom, there was little point going back to bed for 5am alarm….today was the tour of the Demilitarized Zone or DMZ and an intriguing glimpse across the border into North Korea – complete with an extensive history lesson on the Korean War.

Mr Horne, my throwback history teacher in year 10, did a decent job of covering a lot of the bases, so I racked the recesses of my brain for a fair few remnants of GCSE level learning. But it was great to have our utterly adoreable guide Min, to show us round and fill us in on all things north of the border.

Piled on the bus and made our way to the DMZ. There is a complex set up of border control between the North and the South (no shit, Sherlock!), but I underestimated the series of lines drawn between each. The southern limit line marks the area where the south ‘ends’ and the Demilitarized Zone begins. Then there is a large expanse of Demilitarized area, which even houses an entire village, Daeseong-dong, in the void. Then north of the Demilitarized Zone, there is then an equivalent northern limits border zone before reaching the north itself.

This tour was a combo of delving into the Demilitarized Zone, peering across to Peyongyang, visiting the Third Infilitration Tunnel, and a final swing by the Gamnasan suspension bridge.

The first stop was the Imjingak peace park. As it says on the tin a park, just south of the civilian control area (before you reach the demarcation divide line), attempting to serve as a reminder for peace. Two profound Korean traditions mark attempts to commemorate and also erase the war.

The commemoration is poignantly marked on one side by a beautiful park full of memorials, artefacts, and monuments nodding to the many lives lost. The “erase” the war part is hilariously marked with a massive amusement park in a bid to bring joy and forget the horrors of war. If Disney is the happiest place on earth…this has gotta be the unhappiest, but credit to them for trying! Something so jarring about heartfelt shrines housing remnants of the horrors or war whilst a pirate ship swing boat sways in your peripheral vision?! Odd to say the least, but I’ve come to expect anything now….

We learned some fascinating stories about how families had been torn apart with some relatives residing in the south and others remaining in the north, never to meet again. Political commentator I most certainly ain’t, but visits to memorials which stand proud in a bid to remind us of the importance of peace, always strike such profound sadness when you realise just how little we’ve learned from history, and how troubled our planet remains.

This worldwide fascination with North Korea was certainly captured by the demographic of the tour, with patrons representing races, religions, creeds, and countries across the globe. All enthralled by the chance to get a glimpse at what lies beyond the handful of kilometers, which separates from the South.

After a brief historical summary from Min, our next stop was crossing over the Southern limit line into the DMZ proper and a first glimpse at North Korean turf at the Dora Observatory.

There is so much unsaid as we arrive, and it feels weirdly tense even just waiting to drive up the road. We are reminded 100 times of the dos and don’ts, and then the soldiers board our bus to undertake passport checks. They ask each of us for names, date of birth, and diligently compare photographs to passports. It has happened at every border I’ve crossed on this trip but feels all the more intense here.

The Dora Observatory was recently opened in 2019 after its dilapidated predecessor needed replacement, so after our on board immigration, we all piled off to look north.

Due to restrictions, there was no photography allowed. Also a wholllllle lotta signs noting military action would be enforced if this was disobeyed, with soldiers literally patrolling the viewing area for good measure. Unlike Hobbiton, where hunting for sneaky take-home souvineers felt a challenge to be accepted, North Korea is somewhere I will not take on. So you’ll have to use your imagination of what was…

Here is a snap of the former observatory and the only thing permitted to take snap of.

Our gorgeous guide, Min, had bought her own binoculars “minouculars” if you will, so we could see the villages more closely.

I was unfortunately behind the tool in the queue who seemed to think he had been asked to undertake a full reconisence mission….so it was a long wait for a very speedy glimpse.

The whole experience was just very odd. It felt a bit like those in the North were in a  zoo to peruse. It was a strange and controlled experience that felt forced and whilst a crystal clear view thanks to not a single cloud in the sky, there wasn’t really much to see. No people could be seen walking around, just houses, military bases, anonymous buildings, and a big f-off flag.

After a strange 20 minutes within the Observatory, we headed towards our next stop the Third infiltration tunnel….via a brief stop at the village within the DMZ itself.

A tiny place mainly reliant on voyeuristic tourism, Daeseong-dong is home to only 138 residents. They pride themselves on their key exports, ginseng and soy bean with soy ice cream being the local delicacy. As an ice cream afficianado, I’d safely give it a 1/10, a pot of savoury grossness plus grainy texture – do not recommend. For the lactose intolerant amongst the readership, I’m sorry this is your life.

Onward to the tunnel!

Following an explosion which exposed this tunnel in October 1978, the South Korean government enlisted the help of a former North Korean defector to help in the discovery of a bigger network of underground infilitration tunnels. Legend dictates they were dug by the North in the war to spy on Southern plans and suposedly spring a surprise attack on Seoul. Their defector helper had a scant recollection of the network, which meant a really tricky task, but they took him back to see if his memories could help trigger treasure!

In ludicrous news, despite escaping from the North unscathed, he actually stepped on a landmine whilst looking and our guide mentioned he lost an ankle in the process (no info on the leg or foot……?!?!) After some time in recovery the search continued right upto the 1990s with 4 tunnels being uncovered so far. Suggestion is the network spanned at least 10 tunnels, but the remaining 6 are still lost to the annuls of history and time.

It was a seriously steep descent and not for the faint-hearted or claustrophobic. Wiggling our way through around 850 meters of low level, dank, damp, and dingy dugout to reach the climax… a tiny box of the wall that counted down the days since discovery. Completely and utterly not worth the sensory deprivation and crushing crouching to get there. Wildly pointless, I did get to wear a hard hat….so every cloud, eh?

The final stop of the day was an additional visit to the Gamnasan Suspension Bridge – which was an incredibly picturesque and worthwhile bonus!

Sprawling out from the canopy like that scene in the Temple of Doom, the 150m long suspension bridge joins the cliffs across the Seolmari Valley. Bright, bold, red, juxtaposed amongst the greenery of the gorge.

A wobbly walk across the bridge and back a tad unerving but treated to epic views out across the canyon and some life affirming fresh air in the lungs after being trapped in the tunnel, most welcome!

Chatted with Dave from Ireland, who was in South Korea via Sydney, where he is on a working holiday visa and a joy to hang with as we clambered up the hillside up and back down to the bus. I also got pestered by Stephen from Belgium who said he usually meets women on day trips like this, to then travel the rest of his trip with and insisted on taking my number so we could hang out at other stops along the way. Whyyyyyy tho!! I did my best to sneak away from the bus undetected before he caught up with me and said he’d message. Which, of course, he did! Have made excuses and managed to dodge so far. Really hope the hint drops and I won’t bump into him at next, annoyingly mutual stops along the way. Let us pray.

All in all, a bizarre day and not one i’m sure if I enjoyed or not?! A right of passage must do for any Korean itinerary and, I guess, one to tick off the list. But the jury’s still out on if I’d recommend it.

Tomorrow is finally time for much needed r&r and a venture down the coast to Busan. After a punishing few days of relentless rain, I am very ready for the rest – bring on the beach!!!