Sunday was set for a more traditional day since Tokyo is a city with a slice of literally everything you could want, need, or imagine.

So, I headed to Asakusa in search of the past. It was so nice to get out of the occasionally oppressive centre of Shibuya, annnnnd it was super sunny, so me and my basic bitch travel needs were delighted. I grabbed another egg sarnie from 7Eleven, and ate it looking at 3 dogs in nappies in a pram. Because…well … Japan!

I’d booked to do a Tea ceremony on recommendation from Mosdall and Dan, who’d rated it as a highlight of their trip last year and figured since I hadn’t done it before, I’d give it a whirl. It is a whole affair where you very diligently learn the sacred art of macha tea making and how to be the hostess with the caffeinated mostess, all whilst dressed in traditional kimono attire.

In very fortunate news, I ended up with a private tour, after the group of 12 other people who’d booked my slot didn’t show up! Result! It’s a very poignant tradition and special event to witness, so quite rightly, a private would’ve cost me over £300 to do if I’d planned it. Lucky me.

Mia (san) was my tutor and she was a total babe, talking me through every stage of the process and letting me have a very hands on go, I might not otherwise have been able to do in a bigger group. It was honestly so fun, and I loved the pomp, ceremony, and tradition of it all, even if the knees are absolutely not cut out for hard floor making tea these days.

After the elaborate dressing up, where a gorgeous army of women helped get me into my Kimono and do my hair (felt like that scene in Mulan where they make her over, but japanese “we’re going to make this sows ear…into a silk purse” – they had their work cut out, bless em)

I then had free reign to take my new look for a spin round Asakusa for the afternoon. Bring the kimono back by 6 was the only rule, otherwise, go forth and have fun. I decided on two culturally opposed but equally essential stops – the majestic Asakusa temple… and the Hello Kitty flagship store!

It was so lovely to dress in traditional wears for the day. I was also reassured it was culturally fine when doing cultural activities and, more so, actively encouraged for visitors, so all ok. I thought about how the equivalent here would be like coming to Tottenham, dressing you lovingly in a tracksuit, fake tan and pale pink lip gloss, and showing you how to do a builders brew. Beautiful scenes… someone get it on Dragons Den!

I tottered over to the temple, which was stuffed full of those sharing their prayers with Kami, the revered spirits which inhabit nature in Shintoism, and fellow travellers absorbing the atmosphere.

Shinto shrines are so beautiful to wander, with traditional pagodas, lanterns, and incense a plenty. Central to most is the art of Omikuji fortune telling, a huge deal at any Shinto temple you’d stumble upon, and Asakusa was no exception. People come from miles, tumble their change into the slot, and literally shake a stick to receive divine guidance. You release a numbered stick from a hefty hexagonal tub and match it to a corresponding drawer to reveal your fortune hiding behind. As is the jeopardy of life, you can’t predict if your fortune will bestow good or bad luck, shake it up, and hope for the best.

In “things are looking up Emma” latest, I got a good one! So that’s promising, covering a LOT of bases too, so I will hope they all come true… especially the very apt final point about taking care when travelling…!

In ‘ain’t Japan just gorgeous’ news, you have the option, if you get a stinker, to tie your misfortune to a rack so you don’t carry your bad luck with you. Adorbes. May try and implement that for home… expect my flat to look like Mr Trebus’ gaff in no time!

I really couldn’t walk in the shoes and alarming accompanying socks, so I had to give up and head back. So after a toe clenching trip back to the tea house, I hung up my Geisha get up and went in search of snacks.

Beloved Qiraat is always hyping up the joys of the Takayaki, and to be quite honest, a goldfish waffle filled with custard was never going to disappoint, was it!! A perfectly delicious balance of whimsy and wildly scrumptious, bloody loved it!

Decided to top off the day with a visit to the Kameido Tenjin Shrine. I’d missed the cherry blossom, whilst I was adventuring through New Zealand, but wisteria season was suppisedly in full swing til mid May and this place is reportedly stuffed with wisteria, hanging in ordered, unending rows. Wisteria always reminds me of my gorgeous friend Rachel, and my trip to visit her and lovely hubby Alex in Melbourne on my first solo worldwide travel stint in 2016, so embracing the full circle, was keen to see it in bloom. Wandered from the stop, anticipating breathtakingly bountiful scenes… except upon arrival, absolutely none. With thanks to global warming or lost in translation, I was standing, nearing sundown, at a totally empty shrine!

Cute all the same and always proud of myself for using public transport when the language is so alien, but alas the perils of trying to find a gem off the beaten track. All part of the adventure, eh? But still fucking annoying! I headed back to Shibuya for my 3rd attempt at chilled eve, which almost certainly won’t happen, but, I’ll try.

Route back, Bob Ross style, happy little accidently took me through Kinshi park…and another few thousand steps before I reached the metro. But it was another part of Tokyo I hadn’t been to or seen. It’s clearly a big park where friends, family and sports fans gather on a Sunday for spending time in the sun. There were tonnes of super cute little ones, dogs, and friendly folk, making the most of the fading light of the weekend. Very sweet bonus stroll… despite a day of alllllll the steps!

In hindsight, it was the equivalent of popping from Soho to Richmond to have a quick look at some plants… which would be insane at home…so must remember  when plotting future plans!

One essential on this list was a spot of Vinyl record shopping in the hope of finding some buried treasure amidst the international racks. So I stopped by the lanes in search of gold. Behold! Bloc Party…original 2005 press of my favourite album ever, Silent Alarm, glints at me from rack…I ignore the hefty pricetag in a bid to reclaim this, my favourite album from the annuls of associated heartbreak. I’ve got me a precious new copy, and this one’s a keeper! Delighted. I also found a cool Japanese remix of a Jamiroquai EP amongst others, and praaaaay they don’t snap or warp in my suitcase.

Delicious sushi for dinner and picked up a viral individual basque cheesecake to eat in my pj’s and plans for an early night foiled again!

I toasted my last night in Shibuya by finally making it to the hotel Onsen. Onsens are hot springs that appear all over Japan and a dreamy institution to soak away the stresses and strains of the day and the best kind of way to while away a few hours. There are lots of rules and etiquette around onsen life, including segregated baths and, most notably, being completely starkers. But nothing beats waving goodbye to a loooong few days of walking with a nice hot 42⁰ bath… There just so happened to be 4 naked Asian women in it with me! Ha. (Insert dad Joke about “having to pay a lot for that in other places” here!) Followed up with a spot of sauna and an ice bath plunge which bought back traumatic ice bucket challenge memories and a final soak before a truly dreamy sleep. Bloody marvellous.

Final morning was a quick schooch around Harajuku for some last min shopping. Tokyo is made for the Qiraats of this world who ooze effortless fashionista….

Me and my practical North Face rain coat…not so much. But I tried. I do think I’m somehow much cooler here..so I bought this addidas top! Let us pray that I dont just look like vicky pollard when I get back to a bromley back drop!)

Had a matcha and queued for a mental cartoon bakery everyone was raving about. Which, as expected, was utterly insane. It was an ode to Manga cartoon legends Chiikawa, a cutesy little series that follows cloud looking animal creatures and their daily lives…but this time immortalised as a cream horn?!? Sure! It was legitimately policed like a protest on parliament… but all for a comedy bread roll in the shape of a bear. This place, honestly… but I loved it all the same.

Fiiinally caved on the backpack, which has single handedly sucked all the joy from me departing or arriving in new places and bought myself a suitcase which will undoubtedly be the greatest £ I spend all trip! 4 wheel drive, hard shell extendable badboy with plenty of room for inane things to bring home. Joy! Stuffed all my worldly possessions into it and said bye to Shibuya in exchange for the next adventure!

Contemplated the 4 change 1hr 40 minute journey on the metro to the Disney complex, with newly aquired by 20 odd kilo massive case, but got half way down the road in the rain and nearly cried so just swallowed the taxi cost..some things just need spending on.

I am so, so glad I tacked Tokyo onto the itinerary. It’s just as delightful as I remember and in some ways wish I had more time here. It is mania, but the people are wonderful, kind, helpful, and it’s spotless, modern, they’re living in the actual future. Fashion, tech, food, everything wise. Everyone is beautifulllllll, like drop dead ‘oh my god’ levels of gorgeous. Really cannot advise against a holiday here with a significant other that means anything to you, more….unless you want to recreate that “who’s she” meme…or spend the whole holiday feeling like an actual potato.

It has been odd being the anomaly face in the crowd, something you never consider when you fortunately  live somewhere so vibrant and diverse as London. But i had some lovely compliments from some very sweet Japanese women who boosted my self-esteem, no end. A city of dreamboats supporting each other like one giant nightclub ladies loo.

So sayonara, for now Tokyo central… you utter dream place. Until next time for absolute certain.

But what does any sane person who has a couple of weeks and a cultural melting pot like Japan at their travel finger tips do? Spend the last 2 days at Disneyland, of course!!!! I’m coming for you, Mickey…and there ain’t nothing you can do about it!

Xx