Arrived in Wellington at 10 am thanks to internal flight efficiency. It really is a great way to hop about here if you ignore the harrowing carbon footprint angle. Left arrivals to wind and cloud and first impressions, I wasn’t sure. I’m since reliably informed that blustery is this city’s MO, being referred to affectionately by locals as Windy Wellington.

Wellington is the southernmost capital city in the world and is located at the southwestern tip of New Zealand’s North Island. Māori tradition dictates that the legendary Polynesian explorer Kupe discovered the area in the 10th century; modern tradition dictates that all indigenous inhabitants from Māori tribes have now unceremoniously been displaced. A really important point of contention here as much of Nz history is shrouded in this sort of shunning, peppered with a bit of Cook, who played his own role in land smash and grab. British covering themselves in international glory as ever….eye roll!

Fortunately, thanks to recent recognition and campaigning, there are more and more rich examples of Māori traditions to be found across the country, and Wellington is certainly the most linked city i’ve been to here. All hail heritage and the incredible efforts of the Māori people to restore some rightful balance.

Obvs room not ready upon arrival, so wandered about to get my bearings and headed to the harbour where the weather cleared to make way for welcome sun, and I warmed to Wellington much more. I’m discovering I am quite a basic bitch when it comes to needs for travel…bit of sunny weather, autumn colours and an ice cream and I’m pretty much delighted! Crisis averted!

It was still early when I met Josh, who approached me as I was minding my own business, reading a lunch menu in a window, and asked me to have lunch with him. Literally within within 4 seconds of meeting. I made excuses and politely declined the strange offer, but props for being bold, I suppose. As ever, he neglected to take that hint though and asked me what I was doing here and then interrupted me half way through with “ask me what I’m doing” – the neurodiversity magnets still going strong I see!!!

He was in Wellington to pitch his tv show about the Christchurch boy racer scene. He had a 4pm meeting, so I wished him well and promised to look out for “Christchurch Street Racer Society” if it ever made it to Disney+ (doubtful). I warned him that the pitch world is notoriously tricky as my exceptional tv development producer and all-around great egg Brother in law, Tom, has taught me well. Thought maybe it could do with the Tom treatment, to be honest, as he wasn’t that able to explain what the show was, and the name is quite shit. But he had bags of misplaced confidence, that’s for sure. Took some time to ponder how this would literally never happen to a man just trying to have some lunch and rued the patriarchy as per.

I have been outwardly approached by quite a few people here, which, often, is really nice. Times managing male autistic advances not so. But it’s a testament to New Zealand being a bit stuck in the 90s. Most people are friendly here and open and willing to chat; I can only assume that perhaps because there aren’t as many people who live here, person to person interactions are fewer and further between. But it makes for a nice environment as a solo traveller and one I will be sad to lose when I embrace the anonymity of Asia soon.

I headed to Te Papa Museum for the afternoon, the national museum of New Zealand, since literally every single person I have spoken to about this trip recommended it. And they were right, it was incredible. I plumped for the guided tour (all 3 of us!), and Stephen did a great job of narrating the numerous exhibits, best bits, and buried treasures of each floor.

In 2 hours wandering, i’d experienced an earthquake simulator similar to 2011, learned how volcanoes are made and function, and saw traditional stories of Māori facial tattooing or Moko. I’d learned about tsunamis saw a traditional Māori homes, discovered the history of myths and legends including Maui of Moana fame. I saw moa skeletons and taxidermy kiwi birds, learned lessons of natural and social history. I stood inside a native birds nest, uncovered the past and present process of the treaty of Waitangi between Māori and the British, and didn’t even stop for a cuppa!

The jewel in their crown is the phenomenal  Gallipoli – The Scale of our War exhibition. An incredible showcase, capturing the horrors of WW1 through the eyes of 8 ordinary New Zealanders who contributed to the Anzac efforts. The set up itself is a carefully crafted walk through of personal accounts, peppered with super size 2.4 x scale statues of each storyteller, made by the Wēta workshop (more on them later!) It’s a critically acclaimed and award winning exhibit and you can see why. Opened in 2015 for a limited 4-year run, it still remains, and is now being kept open until 2032 (which is only 7 years away and not in fact the fuuuuuture…that as a concept feels gross doesn’t it! I’ll leave that with you!)

In short, I loved it. I was one of a few visitors rattling round in there by late afternoon, so it gave me plenty of time to listen to poignant stories of loss and love. The letters from the front line, sent home to worried wives, really stood out. Truly the most beautiful letters written at the ugliest of times. I find it incredible how those at war could dig deep into their soul when so much was at stake and gift handwritten letters to treasure, when for some, it was the last thing they would ever do. I have always loved letter writing, and it really reinforced why putting pen to paper is such an important legacy to keep alive.

I pondered how these days I can’t even get a text back, and we’re now surrounded by men with ‘commitment issues’ who can’t express their feelings even twice a year…glad to see weve made exceptional progress there. I longed for romantic times that once were, wondered if discarded dick pics may adorn the walls of museums of the future….and eye rolled into the natural world exhibit.

It’s truly the best museum I have ever visited amongst my roams across the world..and i’ve been to a shit tonne of museums. As a former employee within the beloved Dept of Culture Museum’s team, I really rate how incredible this place was. It is so diverse, so interactive, and utterly brilliant. A great afternoon all round.

I’ve really enjoyed discovering each of Nz’s cities and their distinct and very different charms. Wellington certainly has a cooler vibe than anticipated and a nice balance of culture and tradition as well as hosting the heart of government and big industry.

Other activities on the agenda here took me on the famous red cable car up to Wellington Peak to soak in some historic views.

There’s a cute little mini museum at the top so after a wander, I decided to just do the ride one way and the scenic sky to sea walk back down, which took a joyfully downhill route through the Wellington Botanical Gardens (yes another one!) I thought, by now, it was surely a bit seen one gardens seen them all, but I honestly think was the best yet.

The route culminates in crossing through Bolton cemetery (signs getting boring now!), which is an incredible graveyard that was not too long ago split apart to make way for a 7 lane motorway to run through. Whilst I’m sure some of the 19th century ancestors are a little miffed about their final resting place essentially being alongside the M4… I am assured it was sensitively managed (cough….someone got bribed….cough)

The evening was to play for…so I contemplated heading to The Fringe Bar, who were hosting one of the first nights of the New Zealand Comedy festival. I went to enquire about tickets before committing, and the not so exceptional sales pitch from the host was “not sold many, it’s very quiet”! ….I was really unsure if I could bear being one of 5 people in a comedy crowd, so checked reddit for advice on what to do in Wellington on a Monday…and it seriously suggested “get ice cream and go home” – so I plumped for the comedy and prayed.

Christ, I forgot how much these showcase shows are a mixed bag. One bloke’s entire set was small penis jokes, another about contracting malaria as a child?! Then the guy sat in my row desperate for audience participation whooped when one comedian asked who in the audience was single and then again when another comedian asked who had shat themselves in their adult life….I’m no singleton expert but feel like openly rolling with that on the dating market probably wasn’t going to help his cause!

A few funny sets, so it was absolutely worth going along. It’s also incidently how I found myself still drinking in the bar with some of the comedians after. A few rum and ginger ales later and I’m doing Cher’s Turn Back Time on Kareoke and regretting signing up for the all too early Wēta Workshop tour the next day…but a very fun night all round.

Was honestly unsure if Wēta workshop would be for me, given I’m no die hard fan of film or The Lord of the Rings (which is the collaboration they’re most famous for) but I’d defy anyone to not be fascinated by the behind the scenes glimpse into movie making magic.

My beautiful and brilliant friend Charlie has one of the best jobs in the world as a literal puppet master, designer and monster maker here in the UK (her and the team won a bloody Ivor Novello I’ll have you know!!!) and I’m always fascinated by her 9-5. This was a full-blown glimpse into model making marvelloussness and how the worker bees here at Wēta make all sorts come to life, so a really interesting way to while and few hours.

The afternoon was spent on a free tour of the New Zealand Parliament, affectionately known as the Beehive. Turned out I’d timed it to perfection, as Prime Minister’s Quenstions was taking place in the house and we were able to sit in the public gallery. Prime spot opposite the current serving government and birds eye view of Prime Minister Christopher Luxton in action. A cool, if niche, celeb spot for the day.

The tour itself is a bit basic as we are just so spoilt with the history and notoriety of Parliament in the UK. Everything else is based on our model but without all the historical grandeur. They touted the incredible 100yr old library as a piece of history… and I couldn’t help but think how most houses on my road are older!!!

Facetimed the rents to confirm still alive. And headed for some brunch at Neo Cafe on Willis Street. I had a giant hash brown bigger than my head, which felt a fitting bon voyage to the carb loading culinary marathon that has been New Zealand! I will largely be veggie in Asia on account of South Korea’s genuine penchant for dog meat as a delicacy, so I am really hoping it will balance itself out.

In a final culturally poignant plan, I went and got my nails redone for Tokyo. My former talons had got insanely long and were wildly impractical for even flashpacker life, so it was a welcome relief . Thanks to Olivias Nail Bar in downtown and the princely sum of £50, I got a ridiculous hand painted nail art set any 5 year old worth their salt would be delighted by, ready for the Japanese madness.

Over to the airport for an earlier flight to Auckland, after mid-morning panic when my other one got cancelled (joy!) to prep for 11 hours in the air.

Asia, I’m coming for you. First stop Konichiwa to beloved Japan! I can’t bladdy wait!

Xx